EU new law on retinol: Beauty expert shares the best retinol alternatives

As the European Union enforces a new law on retinol, the skincare industry is pivoting towards innovative alternatives to address the needs of consumers worldwide.

The new laws restrict the concentration of retinol in over-the-counter skin care products, limiting face and hand products to 0.3% pure retinol and body lotions to 0.05%. These rules aim to prevent overexposure to vitamin A, which can lead to health issues. Existing higher concentration products have a three-year grace period for reformulation. Prescription retinoids like tretinoin are not affected by these changes.

To help, Trifonia Asmar, beauty expert at Cult Beauty shares the best retinol alternatives that deliver comparable results without the potential drawbacks associated with traditional retinoids.

Here is the glimpse into the best retinol alternatives:

1. Bakuchiol

Derived from the seeds of the psoralea corylifolia plant, bakuchiol emerges as a natural and vegan alternative to retinol. This antioxidant-rich ingredient not only diminishes pigmentation, fine lines, and wrinkles but also fortifies the skin against environmental stressors. Bakuchiol’s unique structure interacts with skin receptors, promoting collagen synthesis and cellular turnover for a rejuvenated complexion.

How to incorporate bakuchiol into your routine: skin care products enriched with bakuchiol should be applied to help cleanse the face and neck once or twice a day after cleansing, toning or as a leave-on AHA/BHA exfoliant. For optimum results, we recommend applying your products in order of the lightest to the heaviest formula – for example if your bakuchiol product is a moisturiser it should be applied after your serums.

2. Rosehip Oil

Although devoid of retinol, rosehip oil contains small concentrations of all-trans retinoic acid. Packed with vitamins C and A, this non-comedogenic oil offers a myriad of benefits, including blemish reduction, sun damage mitigation, and complexion brightening. Its versatility allows for direct application, addition to moisturisers, or incorporation into daily skincare routines.

How to incorporate rosehip oil into your routine: rosehip oil can be applied straight onto the skin in its purest form, added to your moisturiser or incorporated into your daily serums and oil blends. It can be used up to twice a day, morning and evening, and should be packaged in a dark bottle to protect it from UV rays – as this may diminish its potency if overexposed.

3. Vitamin C and Hyaluronic Acid

The dynamic duo of vitamin C and hyaluronic acid emerges as a potent substitute for retinol’s anti-aging properties. While vitamin C shields the skin from free radicals, hyaluronic acid locks in moisture, resulting in firmer, plumper skin with diminished fine lines. When layered together, these ingredients synergize to deliver optimal results.

How to incorporate vitamin C and hyaluronic acid into your routine:not all skin care ingredients can be mixed, but hyaluronic acid and vitamin C are two that become even stronger when paired together. As vitamin C works best in your AM routine to defend skin against environmental aggressors and hyaluronic acid can be used both morning and night, we suggest layering the ingredients during your morning regime. Apply vitamin C products first to cleansed, dry skin. Be sure to leave time for it to sink in before following it up with your hyaluronic acid-infused solution.

4. Niacinamide

As a form of vitamin B3, niacinamide offers a myriad of benefits akin to retinol, such as reducing puffiness, combating blemishes, and addressing pigmentation concerns. However, niacinamide’s unique advantage lies in its ability to maintain skin hydration, making it suitable for all skin types, including dry and sensitive skin.

How to incorporate niacinamide into your routine:to take advantage of the bountiful benefits of niacinamide, it’s best to use it morning and night as part of your daily skin care routine. This could be in the form of a serum, cream or toner. If you’re using a niacinamide serum, apply a thin layer to a cleansed and toned complexion, or if you’re opting for niacinamide toners, these can be applied straight after cleansing.

For more information on the best retinol alternatives and expert skincare advice, visit the Cult Beauty blog post here: https://www.cultbeauty.co.uk/blog/2024/05/best-retinol-alternatives/